All about Fluorescent Lighting

CFLs are More Energy Efficient than Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen

© Kelly Smith

Recessed Fluoresccent Fixture, Kelly Smith

Fluorescent lighting is much more energy efficient that incandescent bulbs (6X more light) or line voltage halogens. The energy bill sets a phase in for this lighting.

All about Fluorescent Lighting

It’s time to learn all about fluorescent lighting! Why should fluorescent lighting be used instead of incandescent light bulbs? There are at least two reasons that come immediately to mind.

The Components on Fluorescent Light Fixtures

The components that all fluorescent light fixtures share are:

  1. Tubes – These are generally either long, straight tubes or tubes curled into different shapes (for circline fixtures, for instance).
  2. Sockets – These come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They serve double duty; fluorescent sockets hold the tube in place and transmit power to it.
  3. Ballasts – The ballast is crucial. When the electric light switch is flipped, the ballast bolsters the electrical current which starts the tube, and then reduces the voltage to the minimum voltage required to keep the light burning properly. This voltage drop is the main reason fluorescents are so power-stingy.

Note: Some fixtures also have trigger switches or starters.

Fluorescent Temperature and Color

Different applications demand different fluorescent temperatures and colors. The temperature (rated in degrees Kelvin) ranges from warm down to cool. Cool tubes are 4000 K and higher and their harsh light is sometimes described as “factory light”. It’s a good choice for task lighting, such as over a wood shop’s work bench.

Warm tubes are classified as 3000 K and less. They approximate the light that an incandescent bulb gives off. Medium temperature bulbs are also available. The fluorescent tube’s temperature and wattage is generally found on the tube, near the end.

What is color rendering? Simply the tube’s ability to illuminate objects. A CRI (Color Rendering Index) of 100 is considered standard, which is logical since it approximates true sunlight. So, tubes with a CRI in the 90’s are used for plant grow lights and the typical standard warm tube is around 50.

Identify a Burned-Out Tube

It’s easy to identify a burned-out tube. Fluorescent tubes use cathode filaments. In time they wear away leaving sooty-looking deposits on the tube ends and don’t do their job properly anymore. This is the normal “burning out” process, unlike incandescent bulbs that work fine until the filament fails abruptly and quits working.

With a new tube, the black deposits are very faint. The darkness progresses until it’s very black and reaches the end of the tube. Time for a new one! A common misconception is that a blinking or flickering bulb indicates a burn-out. Not so; that could be several other things, such as a bad ballast, a faulty starter, or simply a dirty bulb.


The copyright of the article All about Fluorescent Lighting in Home Electrical is owned by Kelly Smith. Permission to republish All about Fluorescent Lighting must be granted by the author in writing.


Recessed Fluoresccent Fixture, Kelly Smith
       


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